Owning a Tortoise

General Information

Some of the most common tortoises kept as pets are the sulcata tortoise, red foot tortoise, Horsfield (Russian) tortoise, Greek tortoise, Hermann’s tortoise, and leopard tortoise.

Of these common pet breeds, the sulcata tortoise will grow to be the biggest. Sulcata tortoises can reach almost 3 feet in length and, at 20–30 years of age, may reach 150 pounds. The Hermann’s, Greek, and Russian tortoises are much smaller and generally reach a maximum of 10 inches when they are full-grown.

The sulcata tortoise and the leopard tortoise are native to Africa and prefer a dry environment. The red foot tortoise originates from Central and South America and is better kept in a tropical/moist environment. Greek, Russian, and Hermann’s tortoises are native to the Mediterranean region and do better in a warm, dry environment.  

Do different tortoise breeds have different dietary requirements?

For the most part, tortoises should be fed a mixture of leafy greens, such as spring mix, kale, collard or turnip greens, and broccoli leaves, as well as chemical-free hibiscus flowers and a limited amount of fruit. Red foot tortoises may also be offered earthworms and mealworms as a treat.

"All tortoises can be left outside in the warmer months 
to forage on grass that is free of fertilizers or pesticides."

All tortoises can be left outside in the warmer months to forage on grass that is free of fertilizers or pesticides. Certain plants can be toxic to tortoises, so be careful not to let them feed on shrubs and bushes. Mazuri® tortoise food may also be used, along with a stable supply of dark-green leafy vegetables.

What kind of environment do I need for my tortoise? 

All tortoises need a supply of UV (ultraviolet light). Tortoises housed outdoors get their UV light from the sun. Tortoises housed indoors will need a UV light placed above their enclosure. The UV bulb must be replaced every 6 months as the UV spectrum wears out over time. 

A basking/heat lamp should be provided for indoor tortoises. For tortoises kept outdoors, the yard needs to have a very secure fence with the bottom of the fence buried 6 inches deep in the ground. You will need a dog crate or some form of enclosure to shield your tortoise from inclement and cold weather.

Most tortoises enjoy a shallow pool to soak in during the warmer months. You can use a kiddie pool with a ramp for this purpose. The water level should never be higher than the level of the tortoise’s head. 

Is there any difference in appearance between the sexes in tortoises?

In general, male tortoises have a more concave plastron (bottom of the shell) than females. This concavity allows the male easier mounting on the female for mating. Males are also slightly larger than females. Having a male and female next to each other makes the comparison easier. Males have a longer tail than females (from the opening of the vent to the tip of the tail), which once again facilitates easier maneuvering during mating. Also, the distance between the vent and the back edge of the shell is greater in males.

How do I select my tortoise?

Most owners buy tortoises from local pet stores or breeders. Young, captive-raised animals make the best pets, as they tend to be healthier and bond more readily with their owners. Older, imported animals may harbor intestinal parasites and often suffer from the stress of captivity. Research the different species to pick one that suits your housing capabilities. And remember, sulcata tortoises may live 100 years and reach up to 150 pounds at 20–30 years of age.

Start out right with a healthy pet. Avoid purchasing or adopting tortoises that have sunken or closed eyes, have any type of discharge coming from the nostrils or eyes, or appear inactive or lethargic. 

• Eyes that are sunken into the head or swollen shut often indicate dehydration, emaciation, starvation, and/or vitamin A deficiency. 
• The shell should be smooth and not cracked, pitted, missing scutes, or showing signs of infection (such as discoloration or moldy growth). 
• The shell should be hard. A soft shell is a sign of disease. 
• The vent should be clean and free of accumulated stool. 
• Mucoid discharge from the mouth or nasal passages may be a sign of a mouth infection, as is redness or pinpoint hemorrhages on the mucous membranes lining the inside of the mouth.
• A healthy tortoise is usually active and alert, feels "heavy", and retracts its head and limbs into its shell when handled.

When purchasing a tortoise, always inquire about the seller’s guarantee, in case the tortoise ends up being unhealthy.

My tortoise looks healthy. Why does it need to see the veterinarian?

Photo courtesy of Dr. Gregory Rich, DVMWithin 1 week of purchasing or adopting a new tortoise, you should have it examined by a veterinarian familiar with reptiles. The veterinarian will perform a thorough physical examination, including measuring the animal's weight, and examine the animal for signs of dehydration or malnutrition. 

A fecal test should be run to check for gastrointestinal parasites. Some veterinarians routinely deworm all new pet tortoises for parasites. 

Your veterinarian also should examine the tortoise’s mouth for signs of infectious stomatitis, an infection of the tissues inside the mouth also referred to as “mouth rot”. They may palpate the abdomen (just in front of the turtle’s hind legs, beneath its shell) to search for organ swelling or abnormal masses. 

Your veterinarian may recommend blood tests, cultures, or radiographs (X-rays) to check for other diseases. Typically, no vaccines are required for tortoises. Like all pets, tortoises should be examined at least annually and should have their feces tested for parasites at every examination. In captivity, tortoise’s toenails may need to be clipped periodically. 

Remember, thoroughly wash your hands after feeding, cleaning, or handling tortoises to minimize the risk of contracting a Salmonella infection.